Field Notes Journal Entry
At the Kill: Lioness and Cubs
A day that more than redeemed the previous night: an extraordinary game drive of close encounters and quiet moments, briefly softening the memory of our surroundings — until reality returned in the early hours.
A Strategic Avoidance of Breakfast
We declined breakfast the following morning as we didn’t want to catch a notifiable illness from whatever they’d managed to scavenge from the plains overnight, so we just went for coffee instead. It tasted like rehydrated hippo dung but it was at least warm and wet.
An Epic Game Drive
Our game drive compensated for the foul accommodation as it was truly epic. The highlight of the day was an encounter with two lionesses at a an eland or hartebeest kill with three cubs, of approximately one month old, gnawing at the bones with mum.
We were fortunate enough to witness her suckling them, rolling over on her back to give them access. They were quite possibly the cutest things I’ve ever seen and, in all likelihood, the highlight of the Safari thus far if it’s possible to pick a highlight from so many amazing experiences.
Driving away from them, we noticed the lion, sheltered in a shallow gully and hidden by the bushes, keeping an eye on them.
Today we also came across two lionesses chilling up in the branches of a tree, a foretaste of Lake Manyara where the tree-climbing lions are famous.
A Temporary Change of Heart
When we got back to “Fawlty Towers”, and arrived back at our room, I found the camp was starting to grow me, in spite of the frosty reception and the culinary horror stories. While the bathroom remained “entertaining”, as I’ve said, the room was okay so I was feeling better disposed towards the place as we headed up for dinner.
In all likelihood, my mood was the impact of having had such a terrific game drive.
We were served at table, on time, and although the meal was an odd mixture, something that seems to be a common theme with them, it was at least edible.
3 a.m. Update: I’ve got the squits! Where did we put the damned Immodium … ?!
Field Notes
- Wildlife encounters - Close observation of a lioness with cubs at a recent kill, including suckling behaviour, alongside additional sightings of lions resting in trees.
- Behavioural notes - Male lion observed at distance from the kill site, likely maintaining a watchful position rather than feeding directly.
- Environmental context - Central Serengeti: open plains interspersed with shallow gullies and scattered trees suitable for resting lions.
- Human context - A reminder that exceptional wildlife experiences can significantly reshape perception of otherwise poor accommodation—though not always for long.